I am excited to have the opportunity to dig further into
Permaculture. This term that’s thrown around a lot and seems to have this ‘mystery’
element surrounding it because people really don’t know what it is. In fact,
that’s because there are two versions of the word: permaculture with lower case
‘p’ is often used casually to describe any way of life that is attempting to
live in harmony with Nature. Permaculture, upper case, is the name of Bill
Mollisons’ published philosophy and model of farming. Will our little farm be
designed using the principles of Permaculture? Sure, we will incorporate many
different techniques, philosophies and ideas. Our little farm will be an
experimental zone while we figure out which farming practices and designs make
us, and the land, happy.
What is it:
Permaculture is a set of principles under which a person
designs or adapts a farm or garden practice. It is also a general education in
ecology, agriculture, ancient practices and innovative farming techniques. No
one has ‘a Permaculture garden’ or ‘a Permaculture farm…’ it’s a garden or a
farm designed using Permaculture.
The word stands for Permanent agriculture,
and is an accurate description of what it accomplishes. The idea is to plant
something that will produce year after year while also expanding as a system
and it must not waste Nature’s resources (i.e. water, soil, biomass).
Permaculture Principles:
1.
Observe and Interact: By taking time to engage
with Nature we can design solutions that fit our particular situation.
2.
Catch and Store Energy: By developing systems
that collect resources when they are abundant, we can use them in times of
need.
3.
Obtain a Yield: Make sure that you are getting
truly useful rewards as part of the work you are doing.
4.
Apply Self-Regulation and Accept Feedback: We
need to discourage inappropriate activity to ensure that systems can continue
to function well.
5.
Use and Value Renewable Resources and Services:
Make the best of Natures abundance to reduce our consumptive behavior and
dependence on non-renewable resources.
6.
Produce no Waste: By valuing and making use of
all the resources available to us, nothing goes to waste.
7.
Design from Patterns to Details: By stepping
back, we can observe patterns in Nature and society. These can form the
backbone of our designs with details filled in as we go. “can’t see the forest for
the trees”
8.
Integrate rather than Segregate: By putting the
right things in the right places, relationships develop between those things and
they work to support each other.
9.
Use Small and Slow Solutions: Small and Slow
systems are easier to maintain than big ones, they make better use of local
resources and produce more sustainable outcomes.
10.
Use and Value Diversity: Diversity reduces vulnerability
to a variety of threats and takes advantage of the unique nature of the
environment in which it resides.
11.
Use edges and take Advantage of the Marginal:
The interface between things is where the most interesting events take place,
these are often the most valuable, diverse, and productive elements in the
system.
12.
Creatively use and Respond to Change: We can
have a positive impact on inevitable change by carefully observing, and then intervening
at the right time.
David Holmgren has set up a website, PermaculturePrinciples, where he explains each of them in greater detail. The principles
are practical, they make sense, and it seems that most would agree on them. I
would bet that my great grandfather probably practiced something close to this,
even if he considered his knowledge common sense. You would be surprised how
many people don’t let concepts like these ones sink in, particularly when
designing a farm.
It all begins with the house, the house is central to a
permaculture design. You are in the house most of the time, why shouldn’t your
farm design cater to that fact? The immediate area surrounding the house is
considered zone 1. There are zones in Permaculture, like concentric rings with
the center being the main dwelling. Zone 1, the closest ring to the center, is
where you want all the elements of your farm to be located which take the
majority of your time.
For instance, if you have chickens that require daily
feeding and letting out, you’ll want them in zone 1. Similarly, if you have a
starter greenhouse where you will be looking after starts on the daily you’ll
want that in zone 1. But if you have an orchard, which will not need daily or
even weekly maintenance then it may go into zone 3 or 4 which are further from
the home.
A food forest, for example, is one technique, model or style
of design. It can be independent of any other system and a garden to itself.
Or, it might be an element of a larger zone system where you have a food forest
in zone 4 or 5 of your farm/homestead that you planted with a 10, 20 or 30 year
plan. Because the idea behind a food forest is that it’s self-sufficient and
you don’t have to be there every day, it would be in a distant zone further
from the house. Other elements of this system may include a kitchen garden in
zone 1 or a pasture with grazing sheep in zone 3.
Permaculture zones:
The rings are all dependent upon your particular situation.
Say you’ve got a major hill on one side of the house, the zones will only
extend out on the side that is accessible. Also, let’s say you have a dairy
cow, grazing animals are usually kept in zone 3, but you need to milk every day
and you may not have room in zone 1 for a pasture. So now you will design the
zone 3 pasture with a small access point touching zone 1 where you can build a
milking stall. Again, may sound like common sense, but you don’t want to be the
farmer who talks about “how much hard work it is” when you have to wake up and
walk across two pastures, open four gates, disturb the other animals and do it
all with only a flashlight just to feed the chickens in the morning.
You should want to be lazy. Laziness should be the ultimate goal of the whole ordeal. Not laziness
equal to irresponsibility. We will always have a responsibility to the land and
anything we create. But we should be aiming to reduce our workload and letting
Nature do more of the work so that we can have time to focus on the reasons that drew us to Nature in the first
place.
It's important to realize that Permaculture is one of many practices involved in creating a whole sustainable future:
" Fortunately, for the past half-century some pioneers have been preparing the agriculture of the future, and their ideas are now moving to center stage. Organic no-till, permaculture, agroforestry, perennial polycultures, aquaponics, and biointensive and biodynamic farming— long considered fringe ideas—are now converging as serious components of a sustainable agriculture."
Bates, Albert, and Toby Hemenway. "From Agriculture to Permaculture." State of the World 2010: Transforming Cultures from Consumerism to Sustainability: the Worldwatch Insistitute (2010): 47-53.
How to learn:
If you want to learn more about Permaculture design, you
have to take a course from a certified instructor. They are spreading rampantly
and can be found in most metropli. There are also institutes, and according to
Permaculture.org:
“Permaculture Design Course was developed by Bill Mollison
to teach principles and foundations of sustainable design. All PDC courses
offered throughout the world must follow the same format (see course syllabus
and course outline below) to assure that the integrity of certification process
is upheld. Permaculture Institute is among many other organizations that offer
PDC. For a list of PDC offered by the Permaculture Institute, go here”
Some Other Readings and References:
Veteto, James R., and Joshua Lockyer. "Environmental anthropology engaging permaculture: Moving theory and practice toward sustainability." Culture & Agriculture 30.1‐2 (2008): 47-58.
David Holmgren; The Essence of Permaculture;2007